3D BROWS Tips & Tricks

Brow Mapping

Brow Mapping Esthetics – Part 1

One of the most important parts of Microblading on clients is Brow Mapping! Learn to follow the natural features of your client’s face in building the framework to natural-looking brows. By using the 5 reference points as a guide in brow mapping, it will allow you to build a brow that’s aesthetically pleasing to the eye. We want to enhance our clients’ best features!!!

Brow Waxing vs. Microblading
It’s a lot easier to remove unwanted hair than it is to create hair strokes. We no longer have to wait years for our clients to grow in parts of the brow that they over-tweezed years ago. We can have instant gratification with the ability to add hairs where the clients are lacking. Master the art of mapping the perfect brow and placing strokes within that frame, and you will change lives forever!

Microblading Brow Mapping & Building – Part 2

Ensuring Even Microblading Brows

Part 2 of Microblading Eyebrow Mapping will help you ensure the eyebrow frame is aesthetically pleasing and looks natural. Once you have mapped out the 5 points on each eyebrow, you want to make sure your marks are even both horizontally and vertically before you connect the 5 points to get the shape of the brows.

Each of the 5 points of one eyebrow should match in length to the 5 points of the other eyebrow. These points should also match horizontally between both brows. The measurements can be done with a Brow Ruler and or Brow Calipers (Golden Ratio Caliper). The Golden Ratio measurement formula (1 to 1.618) is often found in nature, from flowers, fine art, buildings and even eyebrows.

To simplify the golden ratio, it means that if you were to take a line and divide it up to what it aesthetically pleasing to the eye, you would divide the line between 2/3 and 1/3. When applying the golden ratio to the brows, for us this means that 2/3 of the brow is the body and 1/3 of the brow is the tail. To ensure our new eyebrows are aesthetically pleasing and look natural, we can verify our 5 eyebrow points match by using a Brow Ruler or Brow Calipers. If you would like to get a better understanding of the Golden Ratio, also know as Phi Ratio, request for our free microblading practice lesson.

For the beginner microblading artist, we recommend using the eyebrow ruler. Understanding the measuring points of a Brow Caliper can be confusing at first. However, it’s a faster method once you understand the measuring points.

It’s crucial to understand nobody’s perfect and some faces will have variations of shape, like an offset nose. These 5 points are to be used as a guideline, and you will have to trust your eyes and own judgment if the points do not match the measuring device you use. Over time working with multiple clients’ circumstances, you will become more efficient as you fine tune your skills. Just remember to try and balance your adjustments as we mentioned in Part 1 of the Brow Mapping video. For example, if you have to move an eyebrow down, don’t just move the one eyebrow down make the adjustment. Bring the right brow down a little and the left brow up a little until they meet.

Once you have mapped out and wax-penciled the border to see the shape of both eyebrows to begin microblading, it’s a good time to show the client the outline and shape of the new brow design. Make sure to keep your stencil outline as thin as possible so that the client can see the shape intended.To keep your lines thin, it helps to constantly sharpen your wax pencil while you brow map. The client’s input is an important part of the process, and by showing the client the border mapped out and getting their approval of the shape, you protect yourself from any confusion or having to make corrections later on in the process. It’s not uncommon for a client to have expectations of a new trendy brow shape that may not fit the shape of their own face. It’s your professional responsibility to advise what’s best for the client. As a 3D BROWS graduate we encourage our students to honor the client’s request as much as possible but to remember the natural aesthetics of the client’s facial shapes and brow patterns from our Facial & Brow Shapes lessons. If the client doesn’t agree with the artist recommendation, try to work with them by adjusting the thickness of the brows (between measuring points 1 & 4) or the arc shape of the brow being high or low (between points 3 & 5).

Remember, if your client’s eyebrow outline is off just a little it throws everything off. During this process it’s good to follow the old saying “measure twice and cut once” or, should we say, measure twice and apply hair strokes once! Do your best to protect the client and remember the work you do on them will be a representation of your services and talents! How do you want to be recognized?

When mapping out the framework of the brows take your time, the more you practice the more efficient you will get.